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Buenos Aires Tetra

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Goldfish Diseases

Goldfish Diseases

One of the more common goldfish diseases is called Ich. Also fins that are split, holes in the fin or chunks of the fin flaking off the goldfish. Fin rot is easy to treat, but you need to find out what the cause of the illness was to prevent the disease happening again.

Dropsy is one of the many bacterial infections that your goldfish can succumb to. This bacteria works from the inside out. Typical outward appearances of this are you fishes scales sticking out. Dropsy is also a cause of high stress like, overcrowding, fluctuating temperatures, and even fighting with other fish.

Ick looks like there is salt on the goldfish, the goldfish will rub itself against objects in the aquarium because of irritation. The goldfish can also have ragged fins, and fast moving gills

Fish Feeding Tips

Fish Feeding Tips

Food is what fish eat in an aquarium. A sound knowledge of good feeding is the key point for a perfect aquarium. Most of the fish activities are dependent upon the type and quantity of the food with which fish is fed. Until you know all the types of fish food you can't judge which type does your fish kind need? Should there be some variations in the food? These are some critical questions which need to be answered and communicated for having a perfect fish tank right at your home. Let's discuss them one by one.

Why proper diet is essential for fish?

Feeding has always been the most important thing with fish keeping. Feeding a balanced diet is very crucial. And the diet of course should be the one which suits the nature of the fish in your tank. If you feed your fish with the best desired food and in the prescribed quantity, you see that your fish has developed a great immune system. It is no more prone to diseases. It is growing at its best rather and breeding at the peak. It has brighter colors and has increased his beautiful appearance. A basic nature with fish is all its kinds have different diet requirements and nature of food. It becomes the duty of the fish keeper to search for the best eating habits of the fish that he has proposed for his aquarium. When he is done with that he should have to be more consistent and regular then. He should follow the rules of timing and quality also. This all goes into the answer of "why".

What is the best food for my fish?

Two things are worth notice when it comes to choose the food type. The first thing is to know the eating nature of your fish and the second one is to know at what heights the fish finds food. If you are good in these two areas, believe me you are never going to face any problem while choosing food type for any fish made by god. Some fish are herbivores. They only eat plants related food. These types of fish are good in number. Second type of fish is the carnivore fish. It only feeds on meat. It might hunt other fish in the tank or you yourself feed it with meat. Although this type of fish is outnumbered in the oceans and seas but there are few people who propose them for their tanks. The last one is omnivorous fish. This sort of fish feeds on both plants and meat. Majority of fish in sea and the fish kept in tanks fall in this kind. One has be very cautious regarding the type of fish while feeding. Feed the fish as per its requirements and leave the fish to live happy.

You might have observed different fish at various aquariums. For ones amaze different type of fish feed themselves on only some specific depths under water. it means, some fish find their food on the top of the water level, some find it a bit deeper almost in the mid of the total water and some feel good when they are fed on the bottom of the water. One can't help with the nature and has to obey the rules. Thus when you are out for fish feeding, keep the height matters in mind.

What food should the fish be offered?

Just like man, fish, being a living creature, needs good balance diet. His food must contain proper quantities of fats, vitamins, carbohydrates and most importantly minerals.

A good variety of food types is available to choose from, for feeding your fish in the tank. Again it goes with the type of fish himself which determines the type of food. If the fish is herbivore, more fiber food like algae and vegetables will be good. These kinds of fish just love to eat spinach, lettuce, nettles, zucchini, carrots, peas and maize.

Before feeding them with these food types just make sure that they are pre- boiled and are not too hard and are breakable and digestible by the fish. These foods are rich in vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Spirulina being an easy assailable vegetable is also recommended by most of the fish hobbyists.

Dry foods

Dry foods are prepared food and are of high quality designed for the provision of a balance diet of the fish and for the supply of extra, urgent proteins as an addition. According to the nature of fish, one can choose dry food for his fish from granules, grains, flakes, pills and wafers. It is helpful for the keeper also because it does not require any preparation expenses and is easy to store. There is almost no risk for fish to get diseased when fed with dry foods.

Fin Rot - Symptoms and Treatment

Fin Rot Symptoms and Treatment

Fin rot is probably on of the most common bacterial infections that appear in aquarium fish. It is very easy to diagnosis fin rot because the fins are actually rotting away and will look as if they are dissolving down to the body of the fish. The fish tends to lie on the bottom of the tank because it is becoming difficult for the fish to swim.


The primary cause of fin rot is poor water quality. Stressed fish have weakened immune systems and that allows opportunistic bacteria to invade, causing fin rot. Since the stress is likely to be an environmental factor, other fishes are likely to be affected as well.

You need to find out what is the cause of the stress and remove it. There are many medications that you can purchase in your local pet store designed specifically to address fin rot. You will also want to do frequent water changes to help improve the quality of the water.

Saltwater Fish Species and Disease

Saltwater Fish Species and Disease

A:
African Flameback
Axelrods clown blenny
Axilspot Hogfish

B:
Bandfin cardinalfish
Banggai cardinal fish
Bicolor Angelfish
Bicolor blenny
Bicolor Foxface Rabbitfish
Bigeye cardinalfish
Bignose unicornfish
Blackcap Gramma
Blackfin Hogfish
Blackfinned Clownfish
Black Striped Angelfish
Black triggerfish
Blackbar triggerfish
Blackbelly triggerfish
Blackstripe cardinalfish
Black Velvet Angelfish
Blackspot Angelfish
Blacktail Angelfish
Blue Angelfish
Blueface Angelfish
Bluehead Fairy Wrasse
Blue tang surgeonfish
Cherub AngelfishBluespotted Angelfish
Bluespotted triggerfish
Bluethroat triggerfish
Boomerang triggerfish
Brazilian Gramma
Bridled cardinalfish
Brown Combtooth Blenny
Brown surgeonfish

C:
Cherub Angelfish
Chestnut eyelash blenny
Chevron tang
Chinese trumpetfish
Chocolate surgeonfish
Cinnamon Clownfish
Clarkii Clownfish
Clown triggerfish
Cockatoo waspfish
Comical blenny
Convict surgeonfish
Convict surgeonfish (Desc 2)
Cook's cardinalfish
Coral Beauty
Coral Hogfish
Coral Rabbitfish
Cortez Angelfish
Cuban Hogfish

D:
Desjardin's sailfin tang
Doederlein's cardinalfish
Dog toothed cardinalfish
Doubleband surgeonfish
Drab sole

E:
Eight Lined Wrasse
Elongate surgeonfish
Emperor Angelfish
Eyestriped surgeonfish
Exquisite Fairy Wrasse

F:
False cleanerfish
Finescale triggerfish
Finespotted Fairy Wrasse
Five-lined cardinalfish
Flamefish
Flame Angelfish
Foxface Rabbitfish
French Angelfish

G:
Gilded triggerfish
Golden Angelfish
Goldspotted Rabbitfish
Gray Angelfish
Gray unicornfish
Great Barrier Reef blenny
Green Chromis
Grey triggerfish

H:
Halfback Angelfish
Halfmoon picassofish
Halfmoon triggerfish
Hartzfeld's cardinalfish
Hogchoker
Humpback unicornfish

I:
Indian triggerfish
Iridescent cardinalfish

J:
Japanese surgeonfish

K:
Keyhole Angelfish
Korean Angelfish

L:
Large toothed cardinalfish
Large-scale triggerfish
Lemonpeel Angelfish
Leopard blenny
Linear blenny
Lined sole
Linguado
Live sharksucker
Longnose surgeonfish
Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse
Lyretail Hogfish

M:
Maroon Clownfish
Magnificent Rabbitfish
Masked Rabbitfish
Masked triggerfish
Majestic Angelfish
Mango Angelfish
Midnight Angelfish

N:
Nalolo

O:
Ocean surgeon
Ocean triggerfish
Ocellaris Clownfish
Ochre-striped cardinalfish
Onespot Foxface Rabbitfish
Orange Angelfish
Orange-lined triggerfish
Orange Skunk Anemonefish
Orangeside triggerfish
Orangespine unicornfish
Orbiculate cardinalfish
Ornate Wrasse

P:
Painted frogfish
Pajama cardinalfish
Palette surgeonfish
Passer Angelfish
Percula Clownfish
Persian blenny
Picasso triggerfish
Pink Skunk Clownfish
Pinktail triggerfish
Potter's Angelfish
Purplemask angelfish

Q:
Queen Angelfish
Queen triggerfish
Queensland blenny

R:
Red Sea mimic blenny
Redfin Fairy Wrasse
Redmargin Fairy Wrasse
Red-speckled blenny
Redtail triggerfish
Redtoothed triggerfish
Ring-tailed cardinalfish
Royal Gramma
Rock Beauty
Rusty Angelfish

S:
Saddleback Clownfish
Saddleback Hogfish
Saddle Clownfish
Sailfin tang
Sargassum triggerfish
Scribbled Angelfish
Scott's Fairy Wrasse
Seale's cardinalfish
Shaggy angler
Sixbanded Angelfish
Skunk Clownfish
Sleek unicornfish
Sohal surgeonfish
Spanish Hogfish
Social Wrasse
Solor Fairy Wrasse
Spotted oceanic triggerfish
Spotted surgeonfish
Spotted tang
Spotted unicornfish - Naso brevirostris
Spotted unicornfish - Naso maculatus
Spotted Hogfish
Stone triggerfish
Striated frogfish
Striated surgeonfish
Striped triggerfish
Striped-fin surgeonfish

T:
Talbot's blenny
Thompson's surgeonfish
Threadfin cardinalfish
Titan triggerfish
Tomato Clownfish
Tomini surgeonfish
Twospot surgeonfish
Twotone tang

U:

V:
Vermiculated Angelfish
Virgate Rabbitfish

W:
Warty frogfish
Watanabe's Angelfish
Wedge-tail triggerfish
Whitetail Pygmy Angelfish
White jawed cardinalfish
Whitemargin unicornfish
Wolf Cardinalfish
Wolf eel
Wolf fish

X:

Y:
Yellow tang
Yellow Angelfish
Yellowbar Angelfish
Yellow Hogfish
Yellow-spotted triggerfish
Yellowmargin triggerfish
Yellowstreaked Fairy Wrasse
Yellowstriped cardinalfish
Yellowtail surgeonfish
Yellow-tailed damsel
Yellowtail tang

Z:

Freshwater Fish Species and Diseases

Freshwater Fish Species and Diseases

A:
Afra Cichlid
African Butterfly Cichlid
African Butter Catfish
African Knife Fish
African Snakehead
Agassiz' Dwarf Cichlid
Akar betta
Albino Cory
El Abra Pygmy Swordtail
Amiet's Lyretail
Asian Arowana
Archerfish
Argus Fish
Arnoldi
Aulonocara Maulana
Aulonocara Benga
Australian Pearl Arowana
Azureus Cichlid

B:
Badis
Bala Shark
Banded Knife Fish
Bangka Snakehead
Baram Snakehead
Barca Snakehead
Batik Loach
Banded Bichir
Banded Shovelnose Catfish
Barred Knife Fish
Barred Sorubim
Bearded Cory
Beauty Mouthbrooder
Bengal Danio
Bigtooth River Stingray
Bishop livebearer
Black Arowana
Black Banded Leporinus
Black Barred Myleus
Black Diamond Gold Piranha
Blackfinned Snakehead
Black Ghost Knife
Black Neon Tetra
Black Piranha
Black Phantom tetra
Blackskirt Tetra
Bleeding Heart Tetra
Benny Tetra
Blue Gourami
Blue Discus
Big Eye Mouthbrooder
Big Toothed Piranha
Black Pacu
Black Small Fighter
Blind Cavefish
Bloodfin Tetra
Blotched Snakehead
Blue Acara
Blue Band Mouthbrooder
Blue Convict Cichlid
Blue Panda Apisto
Bluespotted Snakehead
Blyth's Loach
Bolivian ram
Brandti Piranha
Bream
Brilliant rasbora
Bristlenosed Catfish
Brown Betta
Brown's Betta
Brown Discus
Bucktoothed Tetra
Buenos Aires Tetra
Bulldog Pleco
Bullseye Snakehead
Burmese Snakehead

C:
Cardinal Tetra
Catemaco Livebearer
Celebes Halfbeak
Ceylon Snakehead
Chel Snakehead
Cherry Barb
Chevron Snakehead
Chilumba
Chinese Snakehead
Cinnamon Killifish
Clown Barb
Clown Killifish
Clown Killi
Clown Knife Fish
Clown Loach
Clown Pleco
Cockatoo dwarf Cichlid
Comma Swordtail
Compressed Cichlid
Congo Blackfin
Congo Tetra
Congo Tetra (profile 2)
Convict Cichlid
Coolie Loach
Cortes Swordtail
Cross River Puffer
Crystel Eyed Catfish
Cochu's Blue Tetra
D:

Demasoni Cichlid
Diamond tetra
Dovii Cichlid
Double Lipspot Mouthbrooder
Duckbill Catfish
Dusky Piranha
Dwarf Croaking Gourami
Dwarf Gourami
Dwarf Livebearer
Dwarf Loach
Dwarf Mouthbrooder (Betta)
Dwarf Snakehead
Duboisi Cichlid

E:
Electric Blue Hap
Electric Catfish
Electric Yellow Lab
El Quince Swordtail
Emperor Snakehead
Eureka Cichlid
Eyespot Mouthbrooder

F:
Fahaka Puffer
Father Strohs Mouthbrooder
Figure Eight Puffer
Firebird Cichlid
Firemouth Cichlid
Firehead cichlid
Flag acara
Flagtailed Catfish
Flame Tetra
Flier Cichlid
Forrest Betta
Freshwater Barracuda
Freshwater Barracuda (species 2)
Freshwater Butterflyfish
Freshwater Garfish
Freshwater Gar Fish - Profile 2
Freshwater Moray Eel - Echidna rhodochilus
Freshwater Moray Eel - Gymnothorax tile
Frontosa Cichlid
Fundulopanchax avichang
Fundulopanchax batesii

G:
German Blue Ram
Geryi Piranha
Ghost Knife Fish
Giant Betta
Giant Danio
Giant Snakehead
Glass Knife Fish
Glass catfish
Glowlight Tetra
Golden Nugget Pleco
Golden Snakehead
Gold Gourami
Gold Mixteco
Grant's Peacock cichlid
Gray Bichir
Green Discus
Green terror
Green Throat Mouthbrooder
Green Puffer
Green Severum
Green Terror Cichlid
Guppy
Guyana Leaffish

H:
Halfbeak
Heller's Cichlid
High Backed Pygme Swordtail
Highland Platy
Highland Swordtail
Hikari Danio
Hogchoker
Holland's Piranha
Honey Gourami
Hoplo Catfish
Hora's Loach
Horsefaced Loach
Humeralis Piranha

I:
Indian Glassfish
Indonesian Datnoid
Inle Snakehead

J:
Jack Demspey Cichlid
Javan Mouthbrooding Fighting Fish
Jelly Bean Tetra
Julii Cory

K:
Kadango Cichlid
Keyhole Cichlid
Knife Livebearer
Koi Carp

L:
Lamp eye tetra
Leopard Danio
Leopard Cory
Leporinus
Lesser Bleeding Heart Tetra
Lesser Spiny Eel
Lyretail Killifish
Lyre Tail Pleco

M:
Madagascar Rainbowfish
Maison's Peacock
Malawi Eyebiter
Malebo Puffer
Marbled Hatchet
Marbled Hatchet (profile 2)
Marbled Headstander
Mbu Puffer
Mekong Puffer
Midas Cichlid
Monterray Platy
Montezuma Swordtail
Moonlight Gourami
Mossaic Stingray
Motoro Sting Ray
Mousetail Knife fish
Muzquiz Platy

N:
Neon Tetra
New Ediths Mouthbrooder
Niger Snakehead
Night Snakehead
Nijsseni's Dwarf Cichlid
Norman's Lampeye
Northern Mountain Swordtail
Northern Platy
Northern Snakehead

O:
Ocellated Puffer Fish
Ocellated Snakehead
Otocinclus
Olive Danio
One Spot Mouthbrooder
Oscar
Orange Finned Danio
Orangespotted Snakehead
Ornate Bichir
Ornate Pim
Ornate Tetra
Oscar Fish
Otocinclus Catfish

P:
Pacman catfish
Panaw Snakehead
Panda cory
Paradise Fish
Pareutropius bueffei
Peaceful Betta
Peacock Mouthbrooder
Pearl Danio
Pearl Gourami
Penguin Tetra
Peppered Corydoras
Pepper Tetra
Pictus Catfish
Pike Livebearer
Pike Piranha
Pineapple Discus
Pinche Piranha
Pingi Logsucker
Pink Tailed Chalceus
Piraya Piranha
Platy
Plumed Lyretail
Polka Dot Loach
Polka Dot Ray
Powder Blue Cichlid
Pretty Tetra
Purple Spotted Gudgeon

Q:
Queen Loach

R:
Rainbow Snakehead
Rainbow Shark
Red Belly Pacu
Redbelly Piranha
Red-blotched River Stingray
Redbreast acara
Red Devil
Red Dwarf Rasbora
Red Empress Cichlid
Red Eyed Tetra
Red Heckles Discus
Red Hook Silver Dollar
Red jewel cichlid
Redish Dwarf Fighter
Red Port Acara
Red Sumatran Fighter
Red Tailed Catfish
Red Tailed Hemiodopsis
Red Tailed Shark
Red Terror Cichlid
Red Zebra
Rio Aloyac Platy
Rose Danio
Rosen's Hybrid Platy
Royal pleco
Rummy Nose Tetra
Rummynose Tetra

S:
Sabretooth Tetra
Sailfin Molly
Sailfin Pim
San Juan Cory
Schallers Mouthbrooder
Schwartz's Cory
Scissortail
Serrated Piranha
Serpae Tetra
Sheepshead Swordtail
Severum
Siamese Algae Eater
Siamese Fighting Fish
Sieve Cichlid
Silver Datnoid
Silver Dollar (Metynnis hypsauchen)
Silver Dollar (Metynnis argenteus)
Silver hatchetfish
Silver Hemiodopsis
Silver Mylossoma
Silver Prochilodus
Silvertip Tetra
Simple Mouthbrooder
Simor Fighter
Skunk Botia
Skunk Cory
Slender Betta
Slender Hemiodus
Slender Pygme Swordtail
Small Fin Fighter
Smaragd Fighting Fish
Smooth Back River Stingray
Snakeskin Gourami
Spike Tail Platy
Splendid Snakehead
Spotted Pike Characin
Speckled Platy
Spotted cachorro
Spotted Green Puffer
Spotted Silver Dollar
Spotted Snakehead
Spotted Talking Catfish
Socolof's Tetra
Sterbai Cory Cat
Sterlet
Striped barb
Striped Silver Dollar
Striped Panchax
Swordtail
Swordtail Characin

T:
Tail Light Tetra
T-Bar Cichlid
Tenuis Tetra
Ten Spotted Livebearer
Texas Cichlid
Three Lined Cory
Thick Lib Gourami
Thinbar Datnoid
Three lined mouthbrooder
Three Spot Tetra
Tiger Barb
Tiger Botia
Tiretrack Eels
Tomi Mouthbrooder
Tigrinus Catfish
Tramitichromis intermedius
Tricolor Cichlid
Twin Spot Flag Cichlid
Turquoise Cichlid
Tussys Small Red Fighter

U:
Umbie
Umbrella Cichlid
Upland Swordtail
Upside-down Catfish

V:

Viejita Apisto

W:
Wasers Mouthbrooder
Wessel's Cichlid
West African Lungfish
Western Mosquitofish
White Cloud Mountain Minnow
White Piranha
Widebar Datnoid
Wimple Piranha
Wine Red Betta
Wolf Fish

X:

Y:
Yellow Acara
Yellow King Piranha
Yellow Swordtail
YoYo Loach (Pakistani Loach)

Z:
Zebra Danio
Zebra Loach

Fish Disease Diagnosis

More aquarium fish are killed by disease than any other cause. Unfortunately this affliction could be easily avoided as it's usually cause by poor water quality. Poor water quality can be caused by too many fish in one tank, lack of maintenance of your fish tank aquariums or overfeeding your fish.

Fish Disease Diagnosis

Fish Disease Prevention

One of the saddest things that pet owners everywhere will have to deal with at one time or another is the possibility of their fish getting sick. This can be an unfortunate incident that we will admittedly not have very much control over sometimes, but by and large a little care, forethought and attention can keep many of the common fish diseases at bay.

Fish Disease Prevention

• Fin Rot
  
• Marine ich
• Fish Fungus
• Dropsy
• lchthyophthiriasis
• Flukes
• Velvet
  

Types of Fish Disease

Fish ailments can be separated into 4 general types including bacterial infections, fungal infections, parasitic or protozoan infections, and physical ailments and wounds.

Types of Fish Disease

1. Bacterial Diseases: The most common finding is hemorrhage in skin, fins, oral cavity and muscles with superficial ulceration of the epidermis. Occasionally cavitary ulcers (similar to A. salmonicida) are observed. Exophthalmus and ascites are commonly observed. Splenomegaly and swollen kidneys are common. Histologically, multifocal areas of necrosis in the spleen, liver, kidney and heart with numerous rod shaped bacteria are observed.
2. Fungal Diseases: Clinically, affected fish develop white to brown cotton like growths on skin, fins, gills and dead eggs. This organism is an opportunist that will usually grow over previous ulcers or lesions. Diagnosis is by finding broad nonseptate branching hyphae that produce motile flagellated zoospores in the terminal sporangia.
3. Parasitic Diseases: The most common parasitic disease called "Ich" can be treated most effectively with copper or malachite green in the right dosage. Most treatments will have copper as an ingredient. Many water treatments like "Aquari-Sol" will also contain copper as an ingredient. If the treatment you use is an anti-biotic or copper based, remember to remove all carbon from the filtration system.
4. Physical Ailments: Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds.

What to Put in a Goldfish Pond to Get Rid of Fungus

With any goldfish pond adventure, it is very important to maintain health for the fish. One of the threats to these beautiful creatures is the threat of fungus. Fungus is a white substance that attaches to the fish. It is sometimes stringy in appearance, but it is a problem for them. There are ways to prevent the onset of fungus, and conditions that are ripe for it. Following a strategic plan of attack, one can keep a healthy and beautiful goldfish pond for many years to come.

The best way to prevent fungus in your goldfish pond is to make sure the filters are cleaned, and change the water regularly. Another way to prevent it is to add salt to the water itself. This will change the balance in the water, and prevent fungus from growing in the environment.

If fungus is found in your goldfish pond, one way to treat the fish is to add medications to their diet, and to clean the pond well. Making sure that the pond stays clean is a great way to ward off bacteria and fungus in general. The fish will thank you for it, and you'll prevent costly treatment.

Routine maintenance is also advisable. Checking the health of the fish daily is a way to catch any health issue early. The recommended maintenance procedure is to check the fish every day for signs of fungus, and clean the filters and water on a weekly basis. All your hard work will pay off when your goldfish pond is sparkling clean and your fish are healthy and vibrant!

By: Kerri Reed

Treatments for Tropical Fish Diseases

When our fish get sick, we often feel helpless. Helplessness is often accompanied by fear; fear because we can't quite understand why the fish got ill and fear of losing our beloved pet. These fears can be alleviated with some understanding of what to look for in tropical fish diseases and how we can care for our fish during these difficult times. Diagnosing tropical fish diseases is a difficult task even for the experienced aquarist. Some profession laboratories can perform sensitivity tests by taking a small sample of the fish to determine the proper antibiotic to administer. These tests are, however, quite expensive and not always conclusive. There are many medications available depending on the symptoms your fish display. There are also a number of things you can do to care for your tropical fish during a period of illness. You can educate yourself on tropical fish diseases so that you are in a better position to identify the problem and get the appropriate treatment. Here are a few examples:

• Fish Swimming in Circles - You may observe your fish swimming in circles with its fins clamped. This can be the result of some type of poisoning and will require you to check the contents of the tank to see if there are any contaminants, followed by a complete water change.

• Sores or scabs - If there are ulcers on the body of the fish it could be the result of the Pseudomonas bacteria. This disease may also be accompanied by small haemorrhages from the mouth or internally.

• Red patches on the body - These patches can be seen all over the body including the mouth and fins and are reddish in color. It is indicative of Fibrosis which is caused by the vibrato bacteria which spreads aggressively and can cause death. In addition to medication, a 50 percent water change is recommended.

• Bulging/cloudy eyes - Bulging eyes or cloudy eyes are two different symptoms associated with the same disease. There may be bulging in one or both eyes along with poor appetite, changes in the color of the fish and you may observe the fish attempting to hide. This could be Pistine tuberculosis requiring complete sanitization of the aquarium since there is no known effective treatment. Pistine tuberculosis can also appear in the form of cloudy eyes, one or both, with similar symptoms like appetite and color changes.

• Clamped fins - The fish may appear to have their fins clamped to the sides and as such have difficulty swimming. This is a sign of chilling resulting from a drop in the tank temperature. Check to ensure.

By: Joan Schroeder

How to Keep Fish From Jumping Out of a Fish Tank

By Melanie Marten

How to Keep Fish From Jumping Out of a Fish Tank

Keeping fish in a fish tank in your home is a great decision for those who want an easy to care for pet that makes limited demands on your attention and time. Of course, there are important things to learn before getting a fish tank: health concerns, feeding, water parameters, and fish diseases. One thing many new aquarists often do not consider, however, is how to keep their fish safe by preventing them from jumping out of the fish tank.

No one wants to come home from work to find their pet fish gasping on the hardwood. No one wants to wonder where their fish went and find them a month later dried to a husk behind the cabinet. So, how do you keep fish from jumping out of a fish tank?

Keep Fish From Jumping out of a Fish Tank - Types of Fish

There are certain types of popular aquarium fish that jump out of fish tanks more than others. Any fish that is torpedo shapes, like comet goldfish, have more of a propensity for jumping. Types of fish that are natural insect eaters also jump a lot. The hatchetfish is famous for flying out of fish tanks as well.

If you want to keep fish from jumping out of the fish tank, choose fish that are less likely to do this. Smaller and less powerful fish will have a harder time jumping out of a small tank. Buy fish that fit the tank you intend to house them in.

Keep Fish From Jumping out of a Fish Tank - Tank Lids and Covers

The easiest way of keeping fish from jumping out of fish tanks is to buy an aquarium lid or cover that fits well on your fish tank. Most modern fish tanks come with plastic lids or hoods where the lighting fixture sits. These often have holes for the heater cord and filter to sit in. Make sure these holes are small to discourage jumping fish.

You can also purchase glass cover lids that fit exactly in your fish tank. These go under the plastic hood assemblies and make it impossible for the fish to jump. You can also use screens or netting to stop jumping fish.

Keep Fish From Jumping out of a Fish Tank - Obstacles

If you do not want a lid for your fish tank, you can still keep fish from jumping out of a fish tank by using obstacles. Floating plants can reduce this, as can decor items that take up horizontal space inside the tank. These items will prevent the fish from building enough speed for a jump out of the fish tank. They will also provide a feeling of security as your fish can hide in the plant of decoration. Keep your fish safe and in the tank and you can enjoy them for years.

Appropriate Koi Treatment Methods

By James Field

• Appropriate Koi Treatment Methods
  
• Koi Treatment Options and Solutions

Maintaining a koi pond does not only mean feeding the fish but includes as well properly treating them when they catch diseases. Koi fish infected with a disease can easily contaminate the water and also affect the health of other fish. It is important that koi owners immediately treat those that are ailing.

Proper Ways of Treating Koi

There are a number of ways of administering treatment to koi with health problems. Mostly, the type and appropriate treatment will depend on specific health problems. Some known methods of koi treatment are:

1) adding chemicals to the pond. This is perhaps the most convenient way of treating the fish.

2) here is what is known as tropical treatment. This is the kind of treatment required when the koi has open wounds.

3) in cases when the fish has systemic bacterial infections, you can administer and inject the correct antibiotic.

Important Considerations in Koi Treatment

Some of the more important considerations in koi treatment are symptoms, and the integrity of the biological filter system of the koi pond. Observing symptoms is especially important. You have to observe the symptoms since appropriate medication will depend on the kind of symptoms exhibited by the fish.

The owner must also conduct a water pH test since some symptoms are more or less similar to those shown by fish in poor water conditions. They should also pay attention to the effects of these chemicals on the biological filter system in deciding the kind of treatment. Some of these chemicals can damage the filtration system.

Sometimes you'll need to add medication directly to the pond. This in effect will treat all the fish in the pond, including those that do not require it. Undue introduction of chemicals in the pond will cause damage to the biological filter system. It can also cause ammonia levels to rise, depending on the type of the chemical being used.

When chemicals are put in the pond, it is important that you do not feed the fish while the chemicals are still present in the water. You can also start cleansing the pond of the chemicals by changing water as often as possible.

In most of the cases, chemicals can deoxygenate the water. Hence, additional aeration may be needed in order to safeguard the overall conditions of the pond.

There is also a treatment system known as a "dip". This is done by putting the fish in a small bowl containing chemical treatment, for short period of time. This treatment is particularly effective in dealing with new koi afflicted with an ailment. Before placing the koi in the pond, you must ensure that it is free from parasites and other illnesses.

Koi and the Isolation Box

Another great way of treating koi with poor health conditions is putting it in an isolation box. An infected koi can infect other koi in the pond. To avoid this infection, take out the ailing fish and put it in the isolation box. By putting it in quarantine, the others are spared from exposure to the infection.

To isolate the koi fish, you will need to:

• Get an isolation box. A separate aquarium or a fish bowl will do.

• Clean and disinfect the box in order to avoid further injury to your fish.

• Apply chemicals or make appropriate treatment to the koi fish.

• Oxygenate the water to make the fish comfortable.

• Avoid feeding the fish during treatment.

• Ascertain that the fish has completely recovered before putting it in the pond again.

Appropriate Koi Treatment Methods, Koi Treatment Options and Solutions Article Source : Ezinearticle

Common Aquarium Fish Diseases

By Sampson Zelder

• Common Aquarium Fish Diseases
• Most Common Gold Fish Diseases and Treatment
• Common Fish Diseases - Prevention is the Best Cure

More aquarium fish are killed by disease than any other cause. Unfortunately this affliction could be easily avoided as it's usually cause by poor water quality. Poor water quality can be caused by too many fish in one tank, lack of maintenance of your fish tank aquariums or overfeeding your fish.

In some instances, you may also introduce disease into your aquarium by putting a new fish to an existing tank that has a pre-existing disease from the store. You should always be sure to inspect all fish in a store aquarium for signs of illness before you buy any. Even if the fish you want to buy looks healthy, if there is evidence of other disease in the aquarium, avoid buying from that tank.

Common Aquarium Fish Diseases:

Fin Rot

Fin rot is caused by bacteria within the tank and can actually rot your fish's fins away. An injured fish is most susceptible to fin rot as bacteria then has a chance to infect the wound. Stressed fish are more likely to develop bacterial problems as their immune systems are already compromised, however healthy fish are usually able to fend off infection by bacteria.

White Spot

White spot is easily diagnosed by visible little white spots on your fish. White spot, or Ichtyopthirius, is a tiny parasite that clings to your fish's scales and feeds off the soft tissue beneath. Once you have white spot in your aquarium, the rest of your fish may quickly become afflicted too.

Hole In The Head

This ominous-sounding aquarium disease can actually create little pits in your fish's head. These can look like little dents or dots and is thought to be caused by water that is too high in nitrates. If you notice any pitting or tiny dimples in your fish, then you should immediately test your water levels for nitrate levels. If you find the levels are higher than they should be, then you need to change your water.

Fungus

Fungal infection is often misdiagnosed in aquarium fish as bacterial infection, so be sure you look carefully at the symptoms your fish is displaying. An injured fish is most susceptible to developing fungal infections. In aquarium fish, a fungus growth at or around an injury should appear a little like fluffy white cotton. If you notice fungus on any of your fish, you should change the water at once and monitor that fish closely.

While most aquarium fish diseases can be controlled by keeping your water clean and changing it regularly, it's still important to be sure you don't buy fish with pre-existing disease from the store. You should also be careful not to put too many fish into one tank. Fish live naturally in carefully balanced ecological conditions so you need to be sure you keep the temperature right for your fish. Maintain your aquarium regularly and your fish should be able to enjoy long happy lives.

Article Source : Ezinearticle

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Fish Fungus Treatment

Treatment: Fish Fungus

Tea-tree oil is sometimes promoted as a less toxic antifungal medication. While it can work up to a point, tea-tree oil medication is inconsistent in effectiveness and may not be strong enough to treat severe fungal infections. Tea-tree oil is best considered as a preventative or precautionary measure — something to be used in situations where the fish are not yet sick, but they could be physically damaged because of fin nipping, fighting or handling.

Salt is not a reliable antifungal medication at the doses suitable for use with most community fish, though raising the salinity will help keep fungal infections at bay in tanks with livebearers and brackish fish. Even so, this therapeutic effect should be viewed within the context of providing these fish with better environmental conditions, in particular their needs for a basic pH, moderate to high levels of hardness and a level of salinity appropriate to the species in question.

Fish Fungus Prevention

Prevention : Fish Fungus

Fungus is easily prevented. Avoiding injuries to your fish is essential, and this means minimizing handling and taking care not to mix specimens that might damage one another. Water quality should be monitored carefully, with particular regard to specific needs of livebearers and brackish species.

Cleanliness is an essential part of aquarium maintenance, and removing organic matter from the tank, particularly uneaten food and dead animals, is critical. Sifting the substrate gently to remove organic matter during weekly water changes is also important. The cleaner the aquarium, the less problematic fungus is likely to be.

Betta Splenden Velvet Disease Treatment

Betta Splenden Velvet Disease Treatment

Velvet is another pesky little parasite. If you always add aquarium salt to your betta’s water (1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 2 1/2 Gal of water) and one drop of Aquarisol per gal, your betta will probably never get velvet. It is very contagious, but bettas will fully recover if treated promptly.

Velvet is hard to spot, but can be best spotted with a flashlight. Shine the light on the betta’s body: if it looks like it is covered with a fine gold or rust mist, then it has velvet. A betta with velvet will act sick, so look for clamped fins, scratching against rocks/gravel/tank, loss of appetite, loss of color etc

Velvet is a parasite. Because velvet is very contagious, it is preferable to treat the whole tank when one fish is found to have it.

Ammonia Poisoning

Ammonia Poisoning

As the name suggests, this disease is caused when the amount of ammonia in the water increases. The level of ammonia should be zero as even a little increase in it can cause poisoning in fish. The symptom of ammonia poisoning is that the gills of the fish appear red or inflamed and they try to come out of the water for air. Ammonia poisoning can be treated by changing the water and using chemical neutralizer to reduce the level of ammonia.

Marine Ich

Marine Ich

Marine ich is the most common saltwater fish diseases which is caused by a protozoan named Cryptocaryon irritans. This disease is very easy to recognize as the symptoms include white spots on the skin, gills and eyes of the fish.

The other signs include trouble in breathing and cloudy eyes. Stress and lack of maintenance is the main cause of Marine ich in fish. One should remember that Marine ich is fatal and even contagious. Therefore, if you notice these symptoms in any fish, you should immediately quarantine it.

Medications containing copper are effective in treating Marine ich at an early age. Marine velvet, another saltwater fish disease, is similar to Marine ich. The symptoms are however different as in case of Marine velvet, the spots are smaller, and even darker than those in case of Marine Ich. However, the treatment for treating both the diseases is similar.

Percula Clownfish Anemone Disease

Percula Clownfish Anemone Disease

The tankraised clowns can be more resistant to aquarium diseases like Oodinium that can affect clownfish and other tank residents. Ocellaris Clownfish will typically bond with Long-tentacled, Carpet, or Bubble-tip Anemones, though tankraised fish may not bond immediately with host anemones.

Tanks with insufficient light and insufficient anemone feeding will often see them wither away after a few months. They prefer saltwater higher in specific gravity. Aim for water in the 1.023 - 1.025 range.

Beware that anemones that are dying are believed to release toxins into the water that can harm or even kill tank inhabitants.

Misbar Ocellaris Clownfish, Naked Ocellaris Clownfish, Misbar Black Ocellaris Clownfish, Black Ocellaris Clownfish

Diamond Goby, Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby

Diamond Goby, Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby

These orange spotted sleeper gobies have a good reputation as being very hardy and disease resistant. Always use a quarantine tank for a few weeks at least. if you have a functioning deep sand bed (for nitrate reduction) you will not want to keep these gobies. They will disturb deep sand beds by sifting the sand.

Swordtail Diseases and Treatments

Swordtail Diseases and Treatments

Swordtails are hardy and resilient fish, which are not prone to any particular diseases, although in softer water or bad conditions they can occasionally suffer from white spot or fungus. Either of these is easily treatable with remedies from the aquarium shop, and should serve as a warning sign to increase cleanliness and check water conditions more often. Salt can be used for preventing and curing some diseases, but beware if trying this. Swordtails bred in high salt (sometimes half the salt percentage of the sea) tend to have little resistance to diseases and can die when put into normal fish aquariums.

Black Molly Disease

Black Molly Disease

Flexibacter is a genus of bacteria consisting of some seventeen strains (or species), known for their yellow hue. The unfortunate problem with this disease is that the infected fish rapidly becomes ill and stops eating, especially if it has “Mouth Fungus”, therefore, treating with medicated food may not be an option.
The specific conditions and stressors identified as setting up the right conditions for a Flexibacter infection are:

1. Sudden increases in water temperature
2. Overstocking
3. Infrequent water changes
4. Low water oxygen (O2) content
5. Elevated nitrite levels
6. Uneaten food in the tank, which supports growth of Flexibacter

The treatment of Flexibacter is best accomplished by feeding medicated food, containing oxytetracycline, tetracycline or kanamycin. Other antibiotic-laced foods may contain antibiotics, to which Flexibacter is resistant, such as ormetoprim and sulfadimethoxine, so, substitutes are not acceptable.